Fera Ratyaningrum, Muchammad Bayu Tejo Sampurno, Ika Anggun Camelia
Gulijat is a textile innovation rooted in Indonesia’s cultural heritage, combining traditional folding and pinching techniques with contemporary artistic expression. It reflects Indonesia’s multicultural landscape and serves as a medium for social empowerment. In collaboration with Tiara Handicraft, this research examines Gulijat as a strategy for product diversification and disability inclusion in Indonesia’s creative industries. Tiara Handicraft began as an initiative to address employment barriers for individuals with disabilities and evolved into a cultural enterprise where artisans contribute to and shape Indonesia’s textile arts. Many have established independent businesses while maintaining collaborations with Tiara Handicraft. The study adopts a qualitative approach, using ethnographic observation, in-depth interviews, and participatory design analysis at Tiara Handicraft in East Java (2022). Data collection includes firsthand engagement with artisans, documentation of the Gulijat production process, and analysis of workshop dynamics. The research explores artisans' creative decisions, social interactions, and the cultural significance of their craft. The study also examines how Gulijat textiles construct identity, foster artistic autonomy, and challenge traditional perceptions of disability in Indonesia’s creative industries. Alfred Gell’s technology of enchantment framework analyzes how Gulijat’s intricate techniques and symbolic motifs shape consumer perceptions, highlighting the link between material culture, craft, and social narratives. The findings reveal that artisans view Gulijat as a platform for artistic expression and social recognition, with consumers responding positively to its unique aesthetics and embedded cultural meanings. Gulijat fosters economic independence, preserves local craftsmanship, and amplifies the artistic voices of individuals with disabilities. Tiara Handicraft models disability empowerment within sustainable creative industry practices, demonstrating how cultural production merges tradition, innovation, and social inclusion. © 2025, Center for Intercultural Studies, Polytechnic of Porto. All rights reserved.
Department of Visual Arts Education, Faculty of Languages and Arts, Universitas Negeri Surabaya, Indonesia; Department of Performing Arts, Faculty of Music and Performing Arts, Universiti Pendidikan Sultan Idris, Malaysia
